• anand@cyclofoodie.com

Explore the taste of Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi) food

Once the so called walled city of Shahjahanabad, now widely known as Old Delhi is a true contrast to the other modern part known as New Delhi. It is chaotic, crazy, some very narrow streets but STILL KEEPS MOVING and moves our daily lives.

The walled city is not only famous for some of the historic sites but plays a vital role in our day to day life. It is here where you not only connect yourself with the food of Mughal era but meet some of the exemplar personalities of all times. You see generations of loyalty, passion and skilled efforts being shaped and built to some of the ravishing well known names and fine cuisines. Some of the famous markets are Chandni chowk – market for everything, Chawri bazzar famous for wedding cards, stationary and more, Kinari Market – wedding paradise, Nai Sarak and Daryagang for book lovers, Khari Baoli – well known for its wholesale grocery and also proclaimed as Asia’s largest wholesale spice market and much more to explore.

TIP – The best way to explore Shahjahanabad is by foot. 

So having been to this place couple of times, but every time this excites you for more. This exploration was a longtime coming and what better time of the year than Delhi winters. So we are in the last week of December and time to hit the walled city. Just one day before, I asked few of my colleagues if they are interested to join me and to my surprise I got quiet a few strong committed and hungry foodie YES.

No more questions asked and everyone was impassioned to see the other side of the wall which is still unexplored.

Today 30th December 2016, I was super excited, been anxious for the entire night and with nervousness arrived at New Delhi Metro station gate no 3. The place designated to meet before we start our day. So it is 11 am and the group of 8 foodies are all set to explore.

I will tell you the places to go, how to go, when to go and why to go but what I will not tell you is the taste, the feel, the soul as you need to earn it. Nothing comes for free and let me tell you this – YOU WILL NOT REGRET THE EFFORT YOU PUT IT.

Food stop 1 – Bedmi Poori with Aloo ki Sabzi

This was our first spot and we were ready for our Indian breakfast. In short this is the traditional lentil stuffed fried bread served with potato curry and is one of the common Indian combo meal of North India.

Bedmi Poori accompanied with Aloo sabzi

Food stop 2 – Mithai wala

After a bit of hotness, it is time to cool down your palate with some very mild sweets. There is loads to taste but Kurchan and Rabri are the two must things. You want to know why… Go and find out yourself.

Kurchan and Rabri

Stop 3 – Mango kulfi at Dulichand Kulfi wale

Well known place for varieties of ice-creams but we are talking about the Mango one. It is a masterpiece, deseed mango filled and freezed with ice-cream. What is unique is the way he peels and serves you. Totally catchy and what a taste and flavor. The trigger point is that this place opens only at 1130 in the morning and should be kept in mind to avoid any disappointment.

The end result of Mango ice cream

Stop 4 – The Masala Chai (Tea)

Nothing can beat the taste and aroma of the traditional Masala Chai or Ready made Indian tea. This was our next stop in the narrow lanes before we stepped out towards Sitaram bazaar road.

Milk being added to Masala chai

5 – Dhaulat ki Chaat

Daulat ki chaat, as it is called in Delhi, goes by many names in the north. Malaiyo in Banaras, malai makhan in Kanpur and other parts of UP and my hometown Lakhimpur Kheri, and nimish in Lucknow.

Daulat ki Chaat and the price justifies the name and efforts put in to prepare

This is a dessert that takes a whole night to prepare from milk and a few seconds to vanish.

6 – Chole Kulcha near Chawri bazaar metro station

I am running short of words by now but this is undoubtedly another blow to our taste buds with all the spices. Chole is prepared with white chickpeas served with fluffy bread and definitely one of the Delhi’s favourite street food and you just can’t miss it.  Chole, Kulcha and chaaz is a must have combination served here.

Rajkumar’s family owned pride and flavors, now run by 4th generation

7 – Bade Miyan ki Kheer

After some shhh shhh with some hot hot chole (our group asked extra spicy), we all were dying for some sweetness to cool down. So we walked towards our next joint and met this very humble person Bade Miyan. Not at all a business minded person, still being immensely famous who knows how to cook the ancestral Kheer recipe to perfection. We really enjoyed the mildness and a great place to go again.

Bade Miyan, his charming talks and the group
and his creation called Kheer

8 – Aloo tikki, Samosa, Chole kulcha (Gole Hatti)

Gole Hatti one of the famous place near Fatehpuri Masjid serves from variety of chaat items to some suprise filled aloo tikki, samosas and so on. I enjoyed the aloo tikki and one of us did a pure Desi fushion.

Aloo Tikki, Samosa, Chole and green chutney
The real fushion – Eat the way you want. We mixed it all Chole, Samosa, Aloo tikki and the chutney sprinkled with onion.

9 – Garhwal Paneer Bhandar

With Giani’s in mind, we started to walk and saw this Paneer (Cottage Cheese) shop. What you get here is all sort of paneer, soya chaaps and spices. But the show stopper which even stopped us is the flavoured paneer, a must bite again.

The shop
Flavoured paneer with some black salt

10 – Giani’s Di Hatti

This place requires no introduction but the tour is also incomplete without the Giani’s faluda. Incase you are planning a lunch after that, sharing the faluda will be a good idea. We did the same and even tried the Rose shake. There are quiet a few other variations available and you can pick it as per you choice. Every spoon of faluda is just yumm.

Eye catchy display of Faludas
Rose Shake and more flavors to choose

11 – Al Jawahar Restaurant

Still we made sure that we have space for the big one – OUR LUNCH at none other than at Al Jawahar. So after Gianis, we planned a good walk of 20 mins via Nia Sarak, crossed Jama Mosque and finally reached at the final food stop. Still everyone was aesthetic, one of us was dreaming chicken from the start of the tour and few of us were looking forward to the biryani. We got a family treatment and table on upper floor and after good 30 mins our food arrived with loads of colour and aroma. I personally liked the place compared to Karim’s and will definitely be going back for more.

Great Biryani, Chicken Afghani, Chic Korma with some air filled Tandoori Roti

In the end, what makes you happy are the smiling faces and the joy of making someone fulfilling. Some of us were the first timer on these streets, for the food and moreover the first time in Old Delhi. But today not only we explored something amazing but opened ways for the future. When I asked my friends for comments, one which stand out was – THE DAY WAS AWESOME and we finally ended our day at 5 PM at Chawri Bazaar Metro station (15 mins from Al Jawahar).

The smiling faces

In the end, as promised I have by now told you the secret places to go, when to go Foodies and why to go but what I have not told you intensely is the taste, the feel, the soul which I believe you are ready to EARN IT NOW. And I will give you the easiest way to earn this – THE MAP.

HOW TO GO – Just follow your HEART and the food tour map below –

Thanks foodies for now and do visit what is upcoming in my upcoming section.

 

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